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Big Bend National Park in Texas is an amazing, life-changing experience as you lose yourself walking among ancient seabeds, and expanding your soul in the endless horizon. But for us, Gregg and I, it was more than just a vacation; it was a life decision. The question was, would we leave our lives behind, travel the country and the world, and become travel bloggers? Would we fit our lives into what our car could carry, along with our two cats, shatter the routine that had rendered us catatonic in our lives, and wander the world in a state of exploration, to know ourselves, each other, and be brave enough to create a completely new life? You can read HERE how this even came about.
To answer our questions, we set out on a quest. We needed to see if we even liked life on the road. We wanted to see if we enjoyed stuffing all of our belongings and two cats into a car and driving eight to 10 hours one way, to a place we had never been, all in the name of travel and freedom.
It was time for us to pick a destination to “test drive”.
Gregg didn’t want to drive over eight hours from Dallas on this trip, after weeks of researching, I had nothing, no place I hadn’t already been to that excited me until our son telephoned, and like lightening from the sky, he suggested Big Bend National Park. I’d already been there, but the truth is I could go back so many more times (there is an entire part of the park I’ve never been to) and Gregg hadn’t been to this quintessential Texas haven in far West Texas. Within minutes of his suggestion, I was on the Airbnb site and found the perfect house, Casa La Vista, with a view that captured my heart; I knew I couldn’t tire of looking at it. I booked us within minutes, for September 5-12, 2020.
The biggest question in our minds was, “Would everything fit in the car?” So even though we were leaving for a week, we disciplined ourselves to pack as though we were leaving for two years so we could make sure everything fit in the car. We ordered special carrying cases for delicate housewares like our instant pot, water filter, and blender. We got luggage that was waterproof in case our on-the-roof storage container leaked, but was roomy enough to hold most of what we wanted to bring with us. We got massive zip lock bags (who knew they made those!?!) to carry the cat’s litter mat, linens, and Kindles to condense our books, a digital note book to condense all my journals, and so much more that would help us reduce our lives into our car. Our future plan was to spend the next two-plus years traveling across the U.S. (then internationally) traveling from one Airbnb to another, so I felt we needed to take all the important things with us for business, pleasure, and life.
The trip wasn’t just special because it was our test trip; it was also special because it was our 11th wedding anniversary.
Honestly, I had put no thought into the anniversary celebration; I thought I’d just wear whatever was in the closet. Then I thought of how the year of COVID and quarantine had made me realize just how brief life really is, and how we really never know what tomorrow brings, which is why we should really LIVE in each moment we have. What if this was our last anniversary? How would I want it to be? Friday, before the big road trip, I pampered myself with a mani-pedi and a new dress, but not just any dress. I wanted a sexy and daring dress that showed off the body that houses my soul, the body I’m learning to love. Not since my wedding have I spent so much on a dress (LOL and so quickly too). I realized that I often save or don’t use things deemed “special”, like clothes, food, even money, or china that’s only used three times a year. I’m afraid I’ll run out, or I’ll be sad if something happens to it, never having a sense of abundance. Buying this dress was a big deal for me in so many ways, and it was all I dreamed it had the potential to be.
The day of our test trip came, and we made about 14 trips to the car to get everything expertly packed in, including our two cats. We had eight to nine hours of driving to Big Bend ahead of us. We were on our way!
We stopped at Bells Chicken Dinner House in Abilene, a family-style restaurant offering fried and rotisserie chicken with big helpings of southern sides. I still dream about their chicken, dredged in what I think is a mix of spices and honey. Their doting staff eagerly delivered a serving of cobbler with homemade whipped cream. Gregg and I agree it’s some of the best chicken we’ve ever had in our lives! Their large dining room provided plenty of social distancing space.
We made it to our amazing Airbnb, Casa La Vista in record time.
The next day we lounged on the back porch of the Airbnb which had a little table, and we used our camping chairs to have breakfast overlooking the watering hole in the backyard and the purple hazed mountains in the distance. It was so peaceful, just what we needed.
That day Gregg biked and I hiked at the Davis Mountains Preserve, followed by a quick shower and time for dinner. Afterwards, when we arrived at the 12 Gage Restaurant and Hotel, the patrons thought we had just gotten married. As we strolled in- Gregg in his Tux with a Texas flag bow tie, and I in my white, bold, fits-like-a-glove, barely there dress- people started congratulating us and clapping. We explained it was actually our 11th anniversary, how COVID had taught us to take each opportunity and make it memorable, and we could see they too, might be inspired to celebrate their special moments with more intention, flare, and joy. The restaurant had funky Southwest “cowboy” decor with cowhide chairs and a classic wall of cattle skulls in the courtyard. They serenaded us with operatic love song, sung by our wait person, as we lingered over our delicious meal. It made the night so memorable.
When I think back on 11 years, there is so much that has defined our marriage. In the beginning there was a conversation with my ex-husband, where he told me I should go out with Gregg, after our divorce, and that I had his support to see if it would work out- which he really thought it would. He and I struggled after our divorce to engage with each other, but over time, we found it, and co-parented very well. Having his blessing just made being with Gregg easier, though not necessary.
Gregg and I have supported each other through the death of Gregg’s sister and brother, medical diagnoses for us both, major job changes, and moves to different cities. We bonded over the adventures of raising my teen son and staying connected with my son in his adulthood. Gregg was courageous in partnering with me to grow our family with our “soul children”, three young adults we have taken into our lives and in some cases our home as they suffered hard times. We also fostered our two adorable cats, Sampson and Deiliah, and ended up being their forever home. Not only that, but we also shared beautiful trips to Costa Rica that healed us, and other travel excursions that allowed us time to come back to each other when we gave the world too much. Gregg supported me when I opened my bookkeeping business, leaving the corporate world behind.
In my first marriage I pretended and projected the image my marriage was wonderful and we were so happy, but it wasn’t and we weren’t. Now I’m not pretending, and I’m finally learning to accept things as they are, not creating some unachievable standard of perfection. I simply cherish the moments Gregg and I can share joy and help each other be better people.
Even after 11 years we are still radically evolving, awakening to ourselves, learning to be authentic- to show and share our feelings without judgement, and to recognize that each of us as partner has the job of helping the other to identify what we need to heal and how to be our most powerful, and that never means changing oneself to make the other person comfortable or please them. I feel we are just getting started!
In this new adventure, we’re committed to give to each other our best selves and not the left-overs anymore. We’re choosing to be more vulnerable, present, and honest. I’m learning to look inside myself for love instead of seeking it from an outside source. In my lifelong quest to learn to love myself, I’ve learned not to need Gregg for my wholeness, identity, approval, and value anymore. Today I choose him to be my partner. Each day I’m reevaluating the pieces I’ve chosen in my life and supporting myself with things and people that serve, lift, empower, and support me.
I’ve been to Big Bend before, but this time was special because this was Gregg’s first road biking trip in a National Park. There is just something special about wide open spaces with iconic landscapes. Gregg rode from the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center right into Panther Junction Visitor Center, and then toward Basin Junction and back, enjoying going downhill after his climb uphill. He fed on the camaraderie from people in cars waving to him as they drove by. He breathed in the wide-open spaces, propelled by the incredible views.
He rode the Argon 18 Nitrogen Pro, with the SRAM eTap, and the CeramicSpeed bottom bracket, and oversized pulley system rear derailleur, Continental Grand Prix 5000 with a 25mm profile. According to him, these high-tech features create the feeling there are extra gears on the bike and seamless gear changes, so that the long time spent in the saddle spent on long distance rides becomes very enjoyable.
He noted that he should have taken his Cervelo because the chain ring and rear cassette are more suited for the mountain grades. Gregg rode 60 miles that day.
I took to the Chisos Mountains for a hike, having already climbed to Emory Peak in a previous trip. I went up three miles and then back down, enjoying the views of The Window. I knew that there are bears and mountain lions in the park, but despite that the sign warning me at the trail entrance was a bit jarring since I was alone on the hike, my first major hike in wild spaces alone. I carried bear spray just in case, which made someone asked me if I was carrying a fire extinguisher, because it looks like one.
Overall, the vistas were incredible. When I stopped to take pictures, the clean scents of nature, clear sky, expansive views, and open road enchanted me. Wildlife was plentiful that day. We were so grateful for all that we saw, especially at dusk. We encountered elk, deer, jackrabbit, tarantula, and hundreds of birds. In addition, that day I saw 30 roadrunners. I consider the roadrunner to be a spirit guide of mine because this creature reminds me to move forward quickly.
According to The Shaman’s Guide to Power Animals by Lori Morrison, the “Roadrunner tells us not to run from the fire inside. Fire fuels the passion that will guide you out of your comfort zone to that which is waiting to emerge and dazzle you.” The “roadrunner will support you to take a chance on going in a different direction and replacing the old with the new.”
I have been replacing old beliefs with new beliefs for several years now. It takes such courage to look honestly at yourself and see patterns that helped you survive in the past aren’t actually in your best interest now. The beliefs I’m creating now will help me own my life, to take full responsibility for my new life and my choices, to have courage, to step into the unknown, to let go of control when the universe presents me with a surprise or a new challenge. On this first test trip to Big Bend, it was no coincidence I saw so many roadrunners… It touched me so deeply.
Our son came to visit us at the end of our trip. We went to the Davis Mountains State Park, where Gregg planned to do the Scenic Loop. He started at Davis Mountains State Park, got ready, and off he went. My son and I planned to hike the Vista Trail, which is down the road and outside of the park, but we turned the wrong way. It was lucky that we did because Gregg forgot his tire levers in the car. He flagged us down.
His road trip presented a series of challenges, one right after the other. During a gear shift, the chain of his bike jumped off the front chain ring, so he had to put the chain back on. Then he was off again, but as he struggled to get to the highest point of the road near the observatory, he realized one of his water bottles had fallen from the saddle cage. Due to the length of the ride, he turned around, hoping it was not far back, and began his descent at a quick speed compared to the ascent, hitting over 40 mph at various moments. Unfortunately, he found the bottle 10 miles back laying on the road, at which point Gregg decided this ride was not meant to be. Going with the flow of life instead of trying to take control like we typically do, Gregg changed his plans and rode back to Marathon instead, a feat which became his first-ever 80-mile ride. Even during the last 15 miles, which was on flat grade, he averaged 25mph due to the bike set up and comfort of the bike, CeramicSpeed and gearing ratios. He was in the zone! Never having gone further than 60 miles before in a single ride, the last 20 miles felt invigorating to him and caused no body pain. The next day he did a 50-mile ride because he felt so good.
Meanwhile, my son and I had a great hike. The views from the Vista Trail were spectacular. As a Dallas, TX hiker, I don’t encounter mountains or hills often, so it was a steep climb, and we took breaks when needed, which gave us time to breathe in the beauty of the setting. It’s amazing to me to know that I’m looking at volcanic activity from millions of years ago. Afterward, I was so impressed with the park’s skyline drive, which boasts multiple scenic overlooks in all directions. We went to the top and they have cute buildings and settings for photos and viewing. I would have loved to hike the many trails, but we only had the one day there.
On our last day in Marathon, we went to the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute to sit on the porch of the visitor center, relaxing in the rocking chairs, and watching the hummingbirds zoom to and fro between the feeders and plants.
The hummingbird has been a lifelong spirit animal for me, and I’ve encountered these birds at many important points in my life. According to Lori Morrison, the hummer is known for showing up if “a journey is prepared for you for the purpose of spiritual growth.” The hummer teaches me “abundance is within us all, we are born with it” and that “the trick is being able to receive that which is unconditionally given.” A hummer appears to remind me to stay on the path of my journey no matter how difficult the work, how painful it might be to dig a little deeper.
We drove to Marfa for dinner, a city known for its quirky- and sometimes daring- art and the mysterious phenomenon known as the Marfa Lights. We were so sad to see how hard the tiny town of Marfa was hit by the financial losses due to COVID. After searching for 45 minutes for an open restaurant, we hit the jackpot with Al Campo’s Wine Garden. We each started out with a taco basket, and we went back several times to order more. By the end, we had eaten so many tacos we lost count and had spent over $100 for 4 people and it was worth every penny. Al Campo’s offered shaded or uncovered outdoor seating in a desert garden setting with rustic touches to choose from, as well as indoor seating. I can still taste their tacos!
We did not stay to see if we could see the infamous Marfa Lights, a centuries-old mystery of blue and red lights that dance across the horizon with no known cause or origin.
With the sun going down, Gregg and I couldn’t help but think how special it would be to suit up in our dress and tux and have our son take some photos of us, and when we asked, he jumped from the table and headed toward the car so we could hasten to the task. Once back at Casa La Vista, Gregg and I got dressed quickly, and armed with a camera and a cell phone my son snapped away, while Gregg and I played, kissed, talked, and marveled at the beauty of the desert, now golden with the sun setting on the horizon. The photos were amazing and overall, so was our trip. Time to head home.
There was one last decision. Was this life for us? Could Gregg and I see ourselves leaving behind our familiar daily routines to create something completely different? To put our stuff in storage, travel for the next two-plus years, with cats in tow, so far away from our friends and family, without the comforting daily routine we currently have now? The answer was a resounding “Yes!” It was then that we put our plan in place, to get a new car, to give notice at Gregg’s job, and to start booking places to stay. It was exhilarating to think of what life would be like in a few short months. I’m so grateful we created this priceless opportunity for ourselves. You can read why we chose to do this now, rather than waiting, HERE.
Big Bend National Park at 800,000 acres is the jewel of the state, with jaw dropping landscapes of tall trees, boulders, mountains, dessert, and steep grade roads in between. The vegetation reminds you this was once an ocean floor with native grasses stretching skyward.
Davis Mountains State Park – Davis Mountains State Park offers over 10 miles of scenic trails to explore, including multiple overlooks, and 180-plus degree views, and historical points of interest. Bring your horse, mountain bike, walking stick, and your family, friends, and kids to this southwest gem, centrally located amongst other nearby attractions.
Davis Mountains Preserve, approximately 25 miles northwest of Fort Davis, a 2.4-mile round-trip loop boasting an elevation change of 175 feet, topping out at an elevation of 6,050 feet. From the parking lot, flanked by multiple covered picnic areas, the preserve had a well-marked trail, best hiked in winter, spring or fall due to lack of consistent tree coverage. The views were amazing, with tall pine trees swaying in the breeze. Cars on the roads below looked like toys from atop the mountains. A flock of Scrub Jays flew through, but I saw no other wildlife.
Fort Davis National Historic Site depicts the intersection of frontier military post and settlement life in the Southwest. There are multiple fee and tour options, which include museum exhibits, live demonstrations, trails and self-guided tours and hikes. Pets are allowed with restrictions.
McDonald Observatory, offers a calendar of reservable guided tours and open-air sky viewing programs at various price points, for stargazing and the mythology surrounding some of the most popular constellations. Due to COVID, telescope viewing is not an option, but this may have changed.
Scenic Loop is a stunning 75-mile auto loop through the scenic Davis Mountains, passing many of the points of interest in the region, including the McDonald Observatory, Davis Mountains State Park, the Davis Mountains Preserve, and more. There are many turnoff points for photos and scenic viewing. I recommend the picnic area of Madera Canyon, near the Davis Mountains preserve, to stop and eat a picnic lunch.
Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute is only four miles southeast of Fort Davis, but you feel far away from civilization, as the pristine lands welcome you with sweeping expanses, and as you meander through the mountainous rock formations. The Chihuahuan Desert is known for diversity of vegetation, including cactus species, desert grasses, brush and trees like the Yucca. Their website offers a complete guide to their trail options, ranging from .33 miles to 2.5 miles each, with paths ranging from smooth and even to uneven and challenging. The Hummingbird and Butterfly Trail did not disappoint, with many birds zooming around the day we were there. We just sat on the shaded porch in a rocking chair as hummers zoomed over our heads. Tickets are bought online, but be aware their bathroom and gift shop were closed because of COVID.
Marfa’s Lights look like they could be a UFO shooting and darting across the sky, car lights that dance along the horizon, or possibly a reflection of something undetermined. These colored lights have been known to dance, twinkle, shoot, hover, change colors, and dazzle those that watch. While this is a centuries-old mystery, the excitement around the Marfa lights remains strong today.
Los Muertos serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with their tacos highly recommended by locals. Their front doors were so understated we thought we were lost.
Al Campo Wine Garden & Rustic Bistro– A rustic wine garden in nearby Marfa- with shaded and uncovered outdoor seating among a desert garden setting with rustic touches. Their food was limited due to COVID but what they did serve was amazing.
Casa La Vista, our Airbnb, in Marathon, TX was the perfect location for our stay to visit Big Bend, the Davis Mountains, Ft. Davis, Marfa, and other local attractions, but the best part was the big picture windows on two sides, overlooking a waterhole visited by wildlife regularly. I was giddy with excitement at the wild visitors and the small outside table that allowed us to eat breakfast outside, captivated by the dramatic views of the mountains in the distance and the authentic Texas landscape in-between. It had two bedrooms and one bathroom, outside-access laundry room, and an open-concept living space. This was indeed the best place for us to stay near Marathon, Texas, the closest city to Big Bend from Dallas.
Beale Street Music Festival– Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an.
Memphis Margarita Festival – Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an. In quidam iriure alienum nam, in scripta probatus usu.
Juneteenth Freedom and Heritage Festival – Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an. In quidam iriure alienum nam, in scripta probatus usu.
Memphis Bacon and Bourbon Festival– Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an.
Mempho Fest – Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an.
River Arts Fest – Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit ei, nec congue bonorum an.
Memphis Water Lantern Festival – Quo at mollis tritani molestie, munere vivendum sit e.
Everything you need to know about traveling.
Location: It was about a 40-minute drive to the park border from Marathon, TX, making Marathon the perfect place to stay for a park visit; once in the park, it’s another 30-minute drive to the Visitor Center in Panther Junction.
COVID: If you’re going while COVID measures are still in place, Big Bend National Park is open for visitors, however, the ticket booths, visitor centers, exhibits, restaurants, hotel, showers, hot springs, some camp areas and trails were closed due to COVID, and are identified so on the website. The store by Panther Junction Visitors’ Center was open, but you’ll want to confirm what’s open/closed before you go by contacting the National Park Service at 432-477-2251 or visiting their main website.
Wildlife: The wildlife is plentiful, especially in the early morning or dusk, but can be seen any time. I’ve seen bears, elk, deer, jackrabbit, tarantula, and hundreds of birds. Like that day, I saw 30 roadrunners. You may encounter black bears or mountain lions in the park or on a trail, which is not uncommon. For everyone’s protection, pre-plan food storage, and the disposing of trash or dish water (even food from your dishwater can attract bears); there are bear boxes in each camp site.
Temperatures: Death-inducing extreme temperatures can be experienced in summer months, or it can be freezing, to just hot depending on your elevation during the rest of the seasons, across all areas of the park. Be sure to bring as much water as possible. There is a water refill station at Panther Junction’s Visitor Center and water at the stores found in select areas of the park. Camp fires are not allowed.
Driving: The grades, up to 20 percent, vary throughout the park, with the steepest on Chisos Basin Road making RVs over 24 feet and trailers over 20 feet inaccessible. The 160 miles of unpaved backcountry roads are best done with all-wheel drive, and were stunning, but in my sedan, they were a wild corkscrew ride unyielding to my suspension.
Kids: The Fossil Discovery Exhibit rivals many museums’ fossil exhibits, and I highly recommend it (plus it has a bathroom). The Junior Ranger Program is free and allows kids to complete activities to earn a ranger badge and book at the visitor center. Bring your telescope as Big Bend National Park is recognized by the International Dark-Sky Association for having a dark sky, free of human light, enabling the viewing of celestial events, celestial bodies, and stargazing. Sign up at the Panther Junction Visitor Center to hike with a ranger or enjoy ranger talks on Friday at the Fossil Bone Exhibit, on Saturday at the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail and on Sunday Boquillas Canyon Trail, from 9am-11am. Be sure to check the activity calendar for ranger talks, and other park activities.
Hiking: You could spend days hiking in Big Bend National Park, with its stunning views, landscapes, and wildlife sightings. There is little shade on the majority of trails within the park, most shade is found under the tree cover for those trails ascending mountains, but is still scarce. The terrain varies from sandy with small rocks to challenging with large rocks to step on. Sign up at the Panther Junction Visitor Center to hike with a ranger. Cell service was spotty throughout the park, but on the side of a mountain sometimes I could make a call. You just can’t count on having service, so ensure that you have a way to get help in case of emergency.
Biking: Mountain biking is not allowed on any trails; however, road biking is allowed on the 100 miles of paved roads. Be prepared for steep grades of up to 20 percent and select your route carefully. Take plenty of water even in mild temperatures, and wear bright colors so cars will see you around corners and coming down steep grades.
Pets: Pets are only allowed where vehicles can go with additional restrictions.
Things to Know: You will be very close to the Mexico border. You can cross into Mexico from the park, but be sure to have your passport if you plan to do this, and keep this in mind also if you plan to boat/kayak. Leaving the park, there is a border patrol station. All traffic leaving the park was stopped when we went through.
Mobile App: Be sure to download the new National Park App to access park features, maps, lodging information, and more.
Accommodation – The James Lee House, built in 1848, maintains its old-world charm with a modern renovation that sought to revive the elements of the past with care and opulent luxury, custom amenities, and a spa-like bath experience.
Food – The views while dining at The Lookout at the Pyramid and the Mississippi Terrace at the Pyramid are unparalleled in the city, with accommodations and activities for the entire family in close proximity.
Things to Do –The Civil Rights Museum was so impactful to me I wondered why it’s not a required field trip for every school in North America. I believe the authentic story of slavery should be told, understood, and dismantled
Alise’s Favorites and Suggestions –
If you want to learn about yourself, I suggest taking advantage of the African American history exhibits throughout Memphis that tell the story from every aspect. Having access to these exhibits helped me uncover truths omitted from the school history books and how those omitted facts shaped how I previously saw the inflicted terrorism, changing the way I see how the construct of enslavement is in place today.
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These items will make your travels memorable.
Click any source below to be taken to the website:
International Dark-Sky Association
Big Bend National Park Wildlife
Big Bend National Park and Trail Information
Big Bend National Park Bicycling Information
Big Bend National Park Activity Calendar
Big Bend National Park Port of Entry
Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute
Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute Trail Map
April 19, 2021
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